A World's Fair Odyssey & An Afternoon of Delight ... an essay by Craig Bavaro (Page 2)


I remember the day vividly. It was one of those picture-perfect summer days where you could just lay in the grass for hours and watch the white puffy clouds drift by against a perfect blue backdrop. But there would be no lazing around today! Today was a day for adventure and it was about to begin right now!

My grandfather and I pile into my parent's old Chrysler New Yorker and stop to pick up my friend before we get on the Long Island Expressway for the drive to the Park. Once we're on the highway I turn on the radio. My grandfather doesn't mind pop music. As we listen to the latest rock and disco tunes we drive along on this warm summer day with the windows rolled down counting the exits one-by-one. This is necessary because the old Chrysler has this nasty habit of overheating in the summertime if the air conditioning is used!

What a sight it is to approach the Park from the east on the LIE. Just as you pass over that last rise, all of a sudden, the Park is upon you. Wow! The Unisphere, New York State Pavilion and Heliport look so large. At this point, both my friend and I are trying to imagine what it must have looked like when this view was filled with the kaleidoscope of structures that comprised the Fair. My grandfather is smiling; not because of us but because, in his mind, he can see what we can only imagine.

Finally we are here. My grandfather slowly drives off the LIE onto the service road next to the Grand Central Parkway and into the Park through what was once the New Amsterdam Gate. Wow! Look at those stone markers. They are engraved to commemorate two World's Fairs. Hey, there's the Fair Administration Building! And look over there -- it's the Press Building. Drive slow grandpa, there's some cops out front. My friend and I are hanging out the window like dogs at this point soaking in every detail.

A little background about New York in general and the Park specifically: It's the mid-seventies and New York is on the verge of bankruptcy. In Manhattan, bridges and roads are literally falling down around people for lack of funds to maintain them. You wouldn't let your child wander through Times Square alone for all of the drug dealers, hookers and adult bookstores around and the subways are a very dangerous and intimidating ride at their graffiti-covered best. Out in Queens things are not going much better at Flushing Meadows. They've just announced that the U.S. Open will be moving to the Park soon from its current home in Forest Hills. The fountains don't work. Almost everything and every building has been vandalized or abandoned for lack of interest and funds so the Park Service can barely keep up on cutting the grass or picking up the trash. While this is bad for the Park this is very good for us since this will give us almost unlimited access to go or see anything that we want to by car. This is going to be especially helpful to this little adventure since my grandfather is suffering from asbestos on his lungs which prevents him from walking very long distances.

And so our adventure starts. Soon after we pass the Press Building we come to a bridge over the Grand Central Parkway that allows us to drive into the old Transportation section of the Fairgrounds and right by the Hall of Science. My grandfather stops and describes to us the type of wiring and lighting he did in the Great Hall. Unfortunately we can't go inside since it's closed today but we can walk around the Space Park. All the display panels are overgrown with weeds and bushes and one of the rocket boosters has fallen down off of its pedestal. Being a big science fiction fan I think this is what would happen to the world if some great war caused mankind to abandon its cities.

Next stop, the Heliport. Wow! It's so much bigger up close. It's such a shame they let those panels on the underside fall out. Across the way is the zoo. Is it possible that dome is from the Fair? No time to look up-close. We have so much more to see. "Stop!" my friend calls out. "The map says this is where the General Motors Pavilion was!" My grandfather stops and we pile out of the car. We all stand there in awe. It's hard to believe that one of the biggest and most popular exhibits at the Fair stood on this very spot. But it did; and all we can see now in its place is a baseball field.

Next stop: the New York State Pavilion. Back over the other bridge into the main part of the Park again. We stop in front of this most imposing structure. The colorful roof is gone now. All that is left are the support cables and center ring. There is graffiti on much of the outside walls but looking through the gates on three sides, the interior doesn't look too badly damaged. Damn! I wish we could squeeze through one of these gates to see the largest map of NYS in the world or get one of those elevators to work so we could view the Fairgrounds from the highest point in the Park.

New York State on that summer day in '76
New York State distant view New York State Towers & Tent
New York State Towers Theaterama & Tent

Pouring over our Guidebook we discover that the Time Capsules are across the street. "Come on! Let's find them!" And find them we do in a circle of tall trees. Inside the circle is a low circular stone retaining wall that also serves as a bench. The inside of the circle is paved in flagstones covered with some weeds growing between them. In the center is the capsule marker. It's also circular and engraved with information about both of the time capsules. It's a little hard to read because there is some graffiti that covers it. I take a picture even though it looks a little sad there all alone and forgotten. "Do you think it will survive the 5000 years it is supposed," I ask my friend? He just shrugs his shoulders and says he doesn't know.

left: Time Capsules Marker | right: Monument donated by Rome to commemorate the Vatican Pavilion
Time Capsules Marker Vatican Pavilion Marker

Hey, what's that to the left of the bridge that will take us to the old Amusement Area and Meadow Lake? My friend and I run over to see what the marker is. My grandfather, who has been slowly following us with the car around the NYS Pavilion, stops by the bridge and walks over to us. Once again my friend and I stand in awe. Can you imagine that on this very spot the Pieta stood after traveling all the way from Rome? OK. Back in the car and over the bridge that crosses the LIE to the old Amusement Area. Not much to see here. Just the old Amphitheater that housed the Florida Water Ski Show. It's locked up tight as a drum but at least it looks like it gets used now and again. My grandfather points out that his building was from the '39 Fair and that a very famous water show was put on here then too.

Then it's back into the car to hit the main section of the Park. Around the old Astral Fountain. Nothing of the superstructure remains now except the central water ring. We travel up the Avenue of Asia 'till we get to where the Solar Fountain once stood. Of course it is nothing more than a grass-covered circle now. We continue on until we get to the Eisenhower Promenade. At least now there are some people around. Being a beautiful summer day there are kids riding bikes and families laying on the grass having picnic lunches. Some teenagers are riding their skateboards in the Fountains of the Fairs. They shouldn't be doing that in there. Don't they know this is hallowed ground?!?

We continue up the promenade to the Court of the Universe. Once again we get out of the car to imagine what the great industrial pavilions looked like. "Hey," I say to all present, "over to the left stood the forest of metal trees and the ovoid theater with the letters I-B-M all over it." I ask my grandfather if he thinks computers will ever be as commonplace as they said they would be back then. He says no, just like those Picturephones that were on display in Bell's floating wing right across this pool. I ask him how he knew about those if he didn't see the exhibit at the Fair. He laughs and says "I worked on that building you know." He seems lost in thought for just a moment as he mentions what a view of the Fairgrounds they had from the upper level of the Bell Pavilion where the ride started.

Once back in the car my friend points out the spot where GE's "Carousel of Progress" stood. Having both taken the actual ride itself newly installed at Disney World in Orlando, this gives us something to discuss in detail first-hand. My friend starts to hum that annoying little tune that goes with the show that I both love and hate. I beg him to stop and threaten him with the "It's a Small World" ditty if he doesn't. He promptly falls silent.

As we continue on our ride around the Promenade of Industry we observe the various sites where pavilions once stood trying to conjure up images of the exhibits or the crowds eagerly waiting in line to see them (minus my parents, of course). But in reality, all we really see is tranquil parkland with small clusters of people playing ball games in far off fields. As we continue around the park we stumble across various makers and statues, each of them with a connection to some exhibitor long gone or the Fair in general. Slowly we are working our way towards the center of the park and the mighty Unisphere.

As we approach it my grandfather stops the car and we all jump out. For two young Fair enthusiasts, seeing this colossal model of the Earth for the first time up-close, we are obviously impressed. Looking at my grandfather I can see even he still is awed by its presence. Since there is no water in the fountain, my friend and I spend a great deal of time climbing all over the pedestal reading the dedication plaques, looking into the grates where the water jets were. After photographing this and the many Fair-commissioned artwork situated in this area, my grandfather asks, "Where to next?"

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